Frequently Asked Questions

READ FIRST: A Message from Blackjack Soil Company

I have locked the Commonly Asked Questions Area of the Forum so you can’t respond to the questions or my answers. What I have written will show up in the F.A.Q.s area of the website. This will eliminate the answering of the most basic questions over and over again in the Forum and make it easy for others to read my views without being part of the Forum. Should you not understand my explanation, have comments about them, have info to add to them or have a question that I have not covered, use the Miscellaneous Question area of the Forum. Ask questions about lighting or climate control in those areas of the forum. Use the Plant tips area to give your brothers and sisters that use Blackjack products a clear advantage over other growers. Letting everyone know a great tip will come back to you ten fold in positive Karma points.

Please, if you post to the Forum, no profanities. Be nice to one another. This is a family site so treat it like one.

The Blackjack Soil Philosophy.

If you keep your gardening simple and your plants healthy, your life will be both simple and healthy.

Blackjack :D

Tell me about the ready to use Blackjack Soil.

I am very proud of the ready to use Blackjack Soil formula. It has already helped countless first time and troubled growers become great gardeners harvest after harvest. Blackjack users tell me that they are proud of how healthy their plants are and they are excited about preaching Blackjack’s Soils gardening philosophy and gardening tips to others who have had problems in the past growing plants. One grower said to me, “There’s nothing like seeing your friends go from moderately successful every other harvest to greatly successful all the time!” Blackjack ready to use Soil is easily poured from the bag directly into a pot or into the hole of an outdoor garden plot. There is no need to add any other medium like Perlite or Vermiculite to it. It’s better if you don’t! It has the perfect water to soil ratio that initiates a great natural growth for plants and their symbiotic soil partners yeast, bacteria and fungi. The soil stays wetter longer so you don't have to water as often. The energy in the bagged soil will last about 6 weeks.

There are no chemicals added to Blackjack Soil to kill or repel insects. This would be disastrous for gardeners with an illness like Cancer that attacks and or taxes the human immune system. People need to have a strong immune system to fend off disease. Pharmaceutical drugs can only help the human immune system to destroy the invader. In the end, the immune system is the deciding factor of either winning or losing the battle for life. And, just as sick people should switch their grocery store diet to Organically Grown produce, they should also switch to Blackjack Soil to insure that the plants they grow are free from fungicides, herbicides and insecticides.

Blackjack Soil is blended to be naturally free of problem insects. This is why Blackjack Soil is great for all sick or relatively well gardeners.

The basic ready to use soil is also great for the handicapped, elderly, first the time grower or gardener that has had a hard time growing plants in the past. The soil has enough energy to carry your plants to bloom or about 6 weeks of vegetative growth. And, when it’s time to push your plants into bloom you simply add a one-time application of Blackjack’s Gigantamo Bloom plant food. It’s really that simple.

But make no mistake, when you use Blackjack soil along with Blackjack's other products anyone can stand toe to toe with most hydroponic growers and come out winning. It's pretty amazing. Let me tell you about it.

If you don’t mind doing a little extra work, there is a way to get an even better plant growth from Blackjack’s ready to use soil. I recommend using our other products: Liquid Humic Acid, Golden Humic Acid Extract and Gigantamo Water Conditioner. They are excellent for use when watering. To enhance the blooming cycle of your plants, Blackjack makes a great product called Gigantamo Leaf Spray. This product should be sprayed onto 10-20 percent of your plants and then each plant site labeled and placed into your garden log and can be applied up to 3 times the label directions. This will allow you to compare the treated plants with the untreated plants. I bet you will smile.

All of the products Blackjack manufactures will enhance the growth of your plants without the downfalls of overfeeding, mismatched fertilizers and faulty additives. Better yet, they will do it naturally without harsh chemicals. By using the products Blackjack Soil manufactures exclusively, you can rest assured that your plants will be the best that they can be.

To assure a great harvest, keep your plants safe from faulty products and harsh fertilizers. Stay in Blackjack Soil’s No Failure Zone. It’s easy! If it doesn’t say Blackjack, don’t use it! Blackjack makes all the products you need for great plant growth harvest after harvest.

Blackjack :D

Do I need to correct the pH of Blackjack Ready to Use Soil?

Blackjack Ready to Use Soil is blended to be pH correct. I have not seen the need to add chemicals or calcium based minerals to correct pH. It’s really good soil. If you feel you must change the soil's pH, try it on a few plants. Label the plant sites and document the action in your garden log for future reference. Watch them carefully. Don't spend money unless you really need to no matter what your friend says and under no circumstances should you use baking soda to alter soil pH.

Should you be adding Blackjack plant food to a brand of soil other than Blackjack it may be necessary but only in rare instances. Try your best not to purchase bagged bark dust labeled as soil. The US 50 states are very lenient in certifying mediums used to grow plants (soil) and you can buy some really bad soils. Tree bark is very acidic. These so called soils are often found outside of discount retailers and drug stores and marked at low prices.

Should you find the need to correct pH I suggest the use of products containing calcium and apply to label directions.

I am working with a calcium supplier to manufacture a proper mineral combination for supplementing soils with calcium. When I get it, Ill sell it.

In the mean-time, you should use Blackjack Liquefied Humic Acid and Golden Humic Acid Extract. They work very well in stabilizing the pH of soil and help assure the healthy growth of plants.

Blackjack :D

Can I add Perlite to Blackjack Soil?

The short answer is yes but with strings attached.

Blackjack Soil is formulated to make use of the water it holds by allowing the plant to feed on demand. It is part of the reason why it works so well. So when you add perlite you are throwing the formula out of balance.

What can you do to Blackjack Soil to get it back into balance if it is absolutely necessary to add perlite? You will have to add more nutrients back to the Blackjack Soil. You take away nutrients from Blackjack Soil when you add perlite because the perlite has no nutritional value to the plant. It’s like filling your bowl with ¾ soup and ¼ water. You wouldn’t expect your soup to taste the same and have the same nutritional value would you?

Add Blackjack Gigantamo Grow vegetative plant food to help supplement the nutritional loss. Here is the recipe:

¾ cubic foot Blackjack Soil and ¼ cubic foot perlite and ¼ to ½ pound Blackjack Gigantamo Grow plant food. I would start there first and add more or less Gigantamo Grow plant food after observations and the effects are known.

Blackjack Soil is introducing natural soil amendments named Liquid Humic Acid and Golden Humic Acid Extract. When used to label directions, these products have proven to be harmless to the plants and have shown to be effective in increasing the plants root system. Also, it has been confirmed that Liquid Humic Acid and Golden Humic Acid Extract has shown to deliver all-around health benefits to the plants that would include but is not limited to a larger plant capable of delivering more fruit, vegetables and leaf formation. This would be a good product to use for those who add perlite to the Blackjack Soil and or for those who just want a nutritional boost for their plants.

Remember, good drainage is a relative observation. Prove to yourself that it is worth the hassle to add perlite to Blackjack Soil. Test a plant growing with the added perlite and one without. Observe your 10- 20 percent waste water runoff rule on each. Never over water your plants.

Blackjack :D

I have seen what looks like mold in the bag. Will this hurt my plants?

Blackjack Soil is full of all the good stuff plants love and does not contain anything that would hurt your plants. What your describing is normal for Blackjack Soil but probably not normal for chemically treated soil brands. I’m not kidding when I tell you Blackjack Soil is natural. It’s very very natural. I have made sure that there are no chemical agents added to Blackjack Soil to kill it’s microorganism colonies or seeds blown in from the wind. This chemical process is referred to as sterilization. Blackjack Soil is not sterile. The word sterile literally means “without life”. Blackjack Soil is full of life. Blackjack soil uses a natural process called composting and one of the benefits of composting is to keep unwanted seeds from sprouting. It is not a perfect process. You may get an occasional seed sprouting.

Some of the microorganisms that are in Blackjack Soil may break free to colonize between the plastic bag and the soil itself. This is where there is enough oxygen for growth large enough to be seen with the naked eye. It’s these microorganism colonies that are responsible for the increased oils, sugars and carbon found in the consumable parts of your plants. This is a good thing. Don’t worry, be happy. I have inserted a quote from the American Heritage Dictionary below. I think you’ll get the idea. Growers who use sterile soil have to rely on fertilizers to feed their plants and hope that the proper colonization of microorganisms flourish in the soil.

As a matter of fact, when you place your Gigantamo Bloom into your pot when turning your lights back, you are instructed to place a layer of soil over it. This application does two things: One, it forces surface feeding roots to the surface in search of the new food. Two, it keeps the new food source from being exposed to too much oxygen and sprouting microorganisms, (the mold-like growth you were talking about).

Definition of Sterile: 1. Not producing or incapable of producing offspring. 2. Not producing or incapable of producing seed, fruit spores, or other reproductive structures. Used of plants or their parts. 3. Producing little or no vegetation; unfruitful: sterile land. -American Heritage Dictionary Blackjack :D

How long will my ready to use Blackjack Soil or Blackjack fertilizer enriched soil last?

Ready to Use Blackjack Soil or the addition of Blackjack Gigantamo Grow mixed in proper proportions with another brand of soil will last approximately two months of vegetative growth. Adding the proper application of Blackjack Gigantamo Bloom to the previously mentioned plant’s pot will feed the plant through its bloom cycle (about 2 months). It is important to remember that you should have enough soil in the pot to accommodate your plants nutritional needs. (At least 1½ gallons of Blackjack Gigantamo Grow enriched soil or Ready to Use Blackjack Soil for every 12 inches of mature plant height.) In some cases, some heavy feeding varieties of plants may show signs of underfeeding toward the end of the 2 month vegetative period. To rectify this, simply add 1 tablespoon of Gigantamo grow to every gallon of soil in the pot to the top of the soil. Add 1/4 inch of soil to cover it up.

It is my findings that Ready to Use Blackjack Soil will almost always out-perform a competitors brand of soil with Blackjack’s Gigantamo Grow mixed in. To get closer to the results of using Blackjack’s Ready to Use Soil, I recommend the use of Blackjack's Liquid Humic Acid and Golden Humic Acid Extract. Also, look to the Blackjack Water Conditioner and fantastic Leaf spray. Great stuff! Blackjack: D

New Blackjack Plant Foods to be released.

New Blackjack Golden Humic Acid Extract Blackjack Golden Humic Acid Extract is an extract of Humic Acid. It is translucent and works very well for leaf, hydroponic and soil applications. Golden Humic Acid Extract is an all-natural acid product. In most cases, it is fast acting and improves plant growth by increasing the soil’s fertility for all species of plants.

New Blackjack Liquefied Humic Acid Blackjack Liquefied Humic Acid Extract is an extract of Humic Acid derived from Leonardite. It is black in color and works well for soil applications. Liquefied Humic Acid is high in carbon particulate and works well to influence soil particles for long periods of time. When spraying on leaves and placing into the nutrients of hydroponic systems, the gardener will want to weigh the plants health advantages against the possibility that leaves and white hydroponic roots may become discolored. Liquefied Humic Acid is an all-natural acid product. In most cases, it is fast acting and improves plant growth by increasing the soil’s fertility for all species of plants. It is primarily used for soil applications but also works well in the soil.

New Running Start While test runs of Running Start Product has proven very effective I have decided to delay production of Running Start until 03.15.08. Instead, we have moved swiftly to bring Blackjack Soil’s Golden Humic Acid Extract and Liquid Humic Acid to market.

Blackjack Soil is introducing a natural fertilizer named Running Start. When used to label directions this product, in most cases has been effective in aiding the growth of the plant's root system. Also, it has been confirmed that Running Start in most cases has shown to deliver all-around health benefits to the plants that would include but is not limited to a larger plant capable of delivering more fruit, vegetables and leaf formation. Preliminary indications show that users of Running Start will experience less chance of the dreaded over-feeding syndrome linked to chemical fertilizer use.

Running Start was originally formulated to enhance a seedling or rooted cutting's ability to quickly grow roots, thus aid in the up-take of nutrients. It was found that it worked well throughout the plants life. Running Start may be used on all soil brands.

Blackjack :D

Can I use other brands of plant food with Blackjack Soil?

Yes, but I think you should go easy on the strength. Look at the directions on the label and only use ½ of the recommended dose at first and increase the dosage if needed. Increase the dose on one plant and watch carefully for over fertilizing symptoms. Try to stay with organic plant foods if you can but go ahead and experiment on a few with chemicals. Blackjack was conceived to be as free of heavy metals and toxins as possible. You can’t guarantee that with chemical fertilizers. Take the time to compare your experimental grow with the basic Blackjack formula for success before committing all of your plants to the experiment.* Feel free to list plant foods that have worked well with Blackjack Soil.

Most soil additives on the market will work just fine with Blackjack Soil. Use them at half strength at first and move to higher strengths when no adverse reactions have been observed.

* A grow experiment is any combination of plant foods, soil and additives that is not part of the Blackjack formula for success. The Blackjack formula for success is the exclusive use of Blackjack products throughout the grow season. The combination and use of Blackjack products have proven to grow beautiful plants for many gardeners and many varieties of plants without hard work and hassle.

Blackjack :D

How do I mix Blackjack Gigantamo Grow Plant Food into my own bulk soil or compost?

Your Blackjack Gigantamo plant food enriched soil is best mixed in small batches. Find a box 12 inches high, 12 inches wide and 12 inches long. This is a box with the capacity to hold 1 cubic foot. As a matter of fact, any box that has a height time’s width time’s length that equals 1728 inches is one cubic foot. Example:

A box with dimensions of 8” high, 18” wide and 12” long (8x18x12 = 1728) will also hold 1 cubic foot of soil. Now fill the box to the top with your bulk soil (don’t pack it in) and dump it out into a wheel burrow or suitable mixing spot. Now add 1½ cups of Blackjack Gigantamo Grow plant food to it. Thoroughly mix the soil and the Blackjack plant food together. You’re done. The energy in the soil will last about 2 months.

Blackjack :D

After I add Blackjack to my soil can I add chemical fertilizers?

I won’t tell you not to add chemicals because I love to experiment myself. What I will tell you is this. Start your experiments by using the fertilizers at one quarter strength first. Observe the 10-20% wastewater runoff rule and don’t let the plant sit in waste water. Keep careful notes on how you feed and water on a daily basis and place tags on each plant to reference to your notes. That way, if you find a good chemical fertilizer that works well with Blackjack Soil or Blackjack Plant Foods, you will be able to duplicate your experiment again. And, since your willing to go to the trouble of adding extra plant food to the soil, don’t forget about the other products Blackjack Soil has to offer.

Blackjack Gigantamo Grow, Gigantamo Bloom, Water Conditioner, Running Start, Golden Humic Acid Extract, Liquid Humic Acid and Leaf Spray are formulated with great care and contain fine natural ingredients. They are all formulated to work together without flaw. The natural ingredients enable plants to grow in a healthy natural manner.

By this I mean the plant roots are growing in essential elements encapsulated in carbon to make a favorable symbiotic breeding ground for colonies of yeast, fungus and bacteria. This symbiotic relationship between plant and microorganism is deep rooted in the history of plants on earth. Plants are happier when this relationship exists between them. The quality of the plants growing in Blackjack Soil or Blackjack enriched soil surpasses that of any chemically grown plants. Chemical fertilizers can be harsh on plant physiology and devastatingly terminal on colonies of microorganisms.

Higher yields equate to the amount of carbon, oils, sugars and elements the plant can incorporate into the making of cells. Chemically grown plants have a tendency to pack more water into their cells compromising the oil, sugar, elements and carbon content. With all things being equal, the dried weight of a chemically grown plant is less than that of a naturally grown plant. Naturally grown plants have a higher content of oil and sugar when compared to chemically grown plants. Since oil and sugar are significant contributors to the taste of produce, the naturally grown plant is the first choice of the consumer.

Blackjack :D

What does the Blackjack Water Conditioner do for the plants?

Besides light and plant food, quality water is absolutely necessary to grow vibrant plants. Without going into a lot of scientific facts, Blackjack Water Conditioner makes even the worst water better fit for a plant to drink. Think of it as gourmet water for plants. Blackjack Water Conditioner is not for human consumption.

This product when used with the Blackjack's Humic Acid and Humic acid extract grows sound and beautiful plants. Use it. You will believe.

Blackjack :D

How do you suggest I use Blackjack Plant foods outdoors?

Dig a hole at least two times the size of the pot. Make sure the surrounding soil has been spaded to break up hard packed soil. This is a good time to add the proper amount Blackjack Soil’s Liquid Humic Acid to water and fill the hole with it. This will condition the soil to make sure it has less chance to hard pack again. Wait for the Humic Acid dilute to soak into the soil.

Place a cup of Blackjack Gigantamo Grow plant food in the bottom of the hole and cover it with a one-inch layer of soil. Then place the transplant into the hole and lightly pack more enriched Blackjack soil into the space around the transplant. Now use a small broomstick or stake to make a hole in the soil for each foot of anticipated plant height. These holes should be 4 to 8 inches deep. The holes should be staggered at a distance of 6 to18 inches out and around the plant’s root ball. Fill half the holes with up to ½ cup of Blackjack Gigantamo Grow and the other half with up to ½ cup Blackjack Gigantamo Bloom. Cover the filled holes with soil and water the plant and surrounding root zone area with more diluted Blackjack Soil Liquid Humic Acid. This is like Blackjack’s Plant Food application using a pencil as a hole-making tool only on a larger scale.

This method extends the feeding duration and compensates for plants that will be taller than 5 feet. The plant food is separated into pockets, away from the majority of the plant’s root mass. The plant has the option to send its roots up to or into the pockets of plant food. When the above broomstick method is used, over fertilization is a non-issue.

The addition use of Blackjack Soil’s Liquid Humic Acid to the soil will also help condition the soil for outstanding growth. Golden Humic Acid Extract sprayed on the leaves will initiate quick nutritional responses.

Blackjack :D

My plants are starting to turn yellow in my bloom cycle. What do I do?

Common problems solved for all gardeners growing in all brands of soil.

Watering issues always come to mind first. Check to see if you are over or under watering. If you are using plant foods other than Blackjack, flushing may be the first reaction to deficiency signs as yellowing or tip burn may indicate too much plant food or plant waste in the soil because of poor watering and flushing techniques. Blackjack Soil’s Liquefied Humic Acid would be a great product to add to the water that will be used to flush the plants.

If flushing doesn’t do it and you used enough plant food or Blackjack Soil when you planted we can presume that soil is running out of nutrition to feed the plant. Apply 1 tablespoon of Gigantamo Bloom for each gallon of soil in the container to the soil’s surface and cover it with ½ to 1 inch of soil and water the plant. Blackjack Soil’s Liquefied Humic Acid would be a great product to use throughout the bloom cycle to help release the nutrients to the plants. It will also help prevent toxic shock from the over feeding of chemical fertilizers.

The last thing that might be an issue is the fact that some plants naturally do this before the end of their life cycle. If this is the case then adding more bloom plant food won’t help or hurt the plant.

Generally speaking, if you only use plant products made by Blackjack Soil you won't have problems. Always try to use Blackjack Products first, then try one plant with additives from another manufacture. Compare the results on the one test before you switch fertilizers altogether.

Blackjack :D

How do I know if I'm over feeding my plants?

Common problems solved for all gardeners growing in all soil brands.

For those of you who put fertilizer in your water, it is important that you take care not to over fertilize your plants. Liquid Humic Acid and Golden Humic Acid Extract will help keep your plants healthy and keep them from being over-fed. Also, the 10-20 percent run-off rule is going to help you greatly. When you add fertilizer to the water, the plant food goes into the soil. That’s good.

What’s not good is when the plant food builds up in the soil. You see, there is a scientific principle called osmosis*. Osmosis allows the plant to pull in the soluble plant food from the soil because the plant fluids in the roots are stronger in minerals than the soluble plant food in the soil. If the soil builds up plant food to the point where the soil has more soluble minerals in it than the plant roots have, the soil will actually start to pull the minerals out of the roots of the plant. The plant can no longer feed and an interesting thing occurs. The plant shows signs of both overfeeding and underfeeding. To the untrained eye, the symptoms can be interpreted as the plant needing more plant food because it shows signs of being underfed. This leads many gardeners to add more plant food to the soil and make matters worse.

* Osmosis (ŏz-mō’sĭs) The movement of a solvent through a membrane separating two solutions of different concentrations. The solvent from the side of weaker concentration usually moves to the side of the stronger concentration, diluting it, until the concentrations of the solutions are equal on both sides of the membrane. The pressure exerted by the molecules of the solvent on the membrane they pass through is called osmotic pressure. Osmotic pressure is the energy driving osmosis and is important for living organisms because it allows water and nutrients dissolved in water to pass through cell membranes. -The American Heritage® Science Dictionary As a general rule, if you add fertilizer to the water your fertilizer strength should be reduced in hot weather and raised back up again when temperatures come down. This is because you will be watering more often and plants will often transpire water faster than photosynthesis can process the plant food. The fertilizer has more chance to build-up in the soil in hot weather.

I will take this opportunity to tell you some classic symptoms that plants will show when they’re being overfed.

Leaf: The plant leaf will tend to show signs of stress by turning a very dark green and then turning to a light green fading eventually to yellow. Initial stress can also be seen in the leaf as a slight buckling, or the plant’s inability to keep its leaves flat or inability to keep the classic even shape of all of the leaves. The leaf may even show signs of obvious deformity. Plant leaf tips may start to curl, either from side to side or curl up or down. The leaf tips may turn brown, dry-up and die. New leaf shoots may show signs of yellowing, either in the veins or between the veins. Advanced signs of over-fertilization will take on the same signs as severe under-watering/drought. Leaves will be dry to the touch and often crumble into tiny pieces when lightly grasped between the fingers and palm.

Stems: Stems will show signs of mineral deficiency by displaying yellow or purple stripes running up and down the main stem or/and running from the main stem to the branches. The branches will lose their ability to bend and bounce back to their original position. They will tend to break, fracture and split under pressure.

Roots: Roots will generally not give signs of over-fertilization. I will say this however; those who have over-watered the soil by letting their plant’s pot sit in water may very well develop root rot. With root rot the roots will turn brown and mushy. You will see many of the same symptoms as mentioned above as the plants root lose their ability to uptake nutrients.

Remember, you should be using Blackjack Liquefied Humic Acid and Golden Humic Acid Extract as part of your watering regiment.

* See: What is the proper way to water my plants? and Should I flush my plants with water from time to time? topics in his section.

Blackjack :D

Can I keep my plant growing in a permanently vegetative state? How?

Re-pot the plant into a bigger pot using Blackjack Ready to Use Ultra Premium Potting Soil or Blackjack Gigantamo Grow enriched soil and then water.

OR Apply 3 tablespoons of Gigantamo Grow for each gallon of soil in the container. Spread evenly over the soil’s surface. Cover with ½ to 1 inch of Blackjack Ready to Use Ultra Premium Potting Soil or ½ to 1 inch of Blackjack Gigantamo Grow plant food enriched soil. Then, water the plant.

OR Make holes in the soil two (2) to three (3) inches deep with a pencil and fill them in with the prescribed amount of Gigantamo Grow Plant Food then water the plant.

Add Blackjack’s Gigantamo Grow plant food every two months or when you see the plant starting to turn yellow. These methods are great for growers who wish to keep a plant growing in the same container year after year. However, it is good to note that eventually the plant will consume all of the soil in the pot and it will have to be transplanted. Also it would be good to note that you should hold the plant in grow by keeping the plant in a light cycle of 18 hours ON and 6 hours OFF.

Use Blackjack's Liquefied Humic Acid or Golden Humic Acid Extract. They work great for maintaining healthy plants that will be growing in only one pot for long periods of time.

Blackjack :D

Is the growing area's climate important? In progress.

I have been asked many times about the proper climatic conditions of the growing area’s microclimate and how to purchase the proper equipment to make it all work. I think the best thing to do is to break it up in categories and work from there.

Temperature I will start with temperature and tell you as much as I can about it and how it can affect the microclimate. You will be installing different products to satisfy your needs and you might as well purchase the equipment that will maximize the dollars you spend.

Most microclimates should be maintained with air temperatures ranging from 60 degrees to 100 degrees. These numbers represent a comfort zone that will be beneficial to most of the plants that you will grow. Most growers when planting indoors have more problems with heat than they do cold. So I will address the heat issue first.

The growing area’s air temperature has a role in how much water will be translocated from the roots to the leaves and finally given off to the atmosphere. It also has a role in how much water the growing areas atmosphere will hold, how fast soil will dry out and how fast wastewater will evaporate from holding reservoirs that are open to the air.

So, before you get too far along, a gardener must define what his growing area’s goals are. Do you want the growing area to just give you a good average grow from your plants or do you want a ‘High Tech’ growing area capable of the kind of results published in collage papers and magazines? Let’s start with the kind of equipment needed that will simply give you good growth.

A grower with simply good growth in mind will need to invest in a good ventilation system to expel hotter air than our comfort zone dictates. A thermostat with a good exhaust fan/blower is needed. It should exhaust the growing area’s atmosphere in less than 5 minutes or, the exhaust fan/blower should be ON all of the time.

High Intensity Discharge lamps (High Pressure Sodium & Metal Halide) give off heat. Since you will be bringing in outdoor air you should be able to use the simplest reflector for your lamp. These would include cone reflectors, parabolic reflectors, wing type or just about any design that is open to the air. ***However, let me interject a safety note about HID lighting. I do not recommend open to the air lamps if they are installed below head level or children are present. These lamps get hot and can leave a nasty burn and possible scar. Also, water can implode these lamps causing flying glass and burning metal. I recommend lamp reflectors with safety glass shields. Should you not be able to maintain your comfort zone because the temperatures are going up too high, simply add more airflow with more fans/blowers.

Let me interject a note about humidity because if of its direct relationship to heat. Remember this, as your temperatures go up so will your humidity issues. This is handled pretty easily because of your exhausting during your lights ON period. However, don’t forget this. When your lights turn OFF the air will cool. When the air cools it will no longer be able to hold the water it did when it was hot. Without the proper equipment, moisture will fall out of the air and collect on the walls, ceilings, floors and plants. This is known as dew and is referenced in most of the weather forecasts on television as Dew Point. This will cause you much grief in the form of mold, mildew and insect infestations.

During the day it can get pretty hot and affect the indoor growing area’s temperature adversely. It is often a benefit to have your growing area’s lights ON at the same time the outdoors is in its light OFF time or night time. So, running them opposite one another might be the correct choice you.

Now for those growers who want to be a little more high tech with their growing area. All of the conditions I mentioned are still present and must be dealt with.

Dealing with heat coming from HID lamps can be very tricky but the new air-cooled reflectors on the market are very nice. Instead of allowing the heat from the lamp to enter the growing area, the idea here is to take air from outside of the growing area and pull it by the lamp and then blow the heated air back outside. This is important because it will not only keep the heat down in the growing area but it will allow you to enrich the atmosphere with high levels of Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and keep them consistently high throughout the lights ON growing period. Maintaining the high and steady levels of CO2 on a consistent basis (CO2 levels at 1,500 ppm) is the key to carbon-enhanced growth. Allowing the growing area’s CO2 levels to drop to 300 ppm and then rise back up to 1,500 ppm is simply not as productive as nice and steady.

The use of an air conditioner inside the growing area will help to keep the temperature and humidity down but to keep energy costs down, you will need to use the air-cooled reflectors we talked about before. Placing an air conditioner inside a growing area with a window is easy enough but to place one in a growing area without a window can be a challenge. Let me explain how to do this. It is actually pretty easy to do and can be done fairly inexpensively.

A box is placed inside the growing area big enough to hold the air conditioner. This box would start off being totally closed and you will cut three holes in it. The first hole you will cut into the side just big enough to slide the air conditioner into it. This is to say that the front control panel of the air conditioner is outside of the box and the coils that are normally sticking out of the backside of the window are inside the box.

The other two holes are for intake and exhaust air. You will purchase a fan/blower and a three vent tubes. Connect one of the vent tubes to the box and the other end to the blower/fan. Then connect the blower/fan to the out of doors or to the ceiling and vent into the attic. The next connection will be from the box directly to the out of doors or to the ceiling.

Once these connections have been made, an airflow pattern will occur in this manner. The blower will suck air from the ceiling/out of doors through the box that houses the air conditioner and blow the air through the ceiling into the attic or out of doors. The air being blown into the ceiling/out of doors will have the heat and moisture given off by the air conditioner.

The box can be as simple as a cardboard box or a wooden box can be made. But just remember it’s simply a box with three holes, one big one and two smaller ones. The big hole is for the air conditioner, one smaller hole is for the cold air intake and one smaller hole is for the hot air exhaust. Typically, there is a thermostat that oversees the garden’s atmosphere. It is there to exhaust hot air in the event that the air cooled reflectors and air conditioner is not holding the temperature within safe levels. In other words, a fail-safe temperature thermostat to keep temperatures below the highest temperature you can allow.

The use of fluorescent lamps and this case I’m referring to T-5 lamps can lower growing area temperatures dramatically. It is my experience that you may need to use more than you would expect to equal the light output of the Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium lamps. However, once you have reached the number of lamps needed for your growing area, gardeners are generally well pleased with the results. I might add that all fluorescent only users should place the reflective coating called Mylar on all surfaces of the growing area, walls ceiling and floor.

Humidity: I have mentioned a few things about humidity in the previous paragraphs that are very important. Once again we need to be very careful about the water content of the air in the growing area. High humidity can lead to plants harboring mold, mildew, bacteria, viruses and insect infestations! Your plants could look seemingly healthy one day and very sick the next. What to do? Well let’s look again at how to control the growing area’s atmospheric water content.

If you are into a simple garden, the use of a good humidistat hooked to an exhaust fan or blower is the only thing you need. Remember, you will also need to provide a vent to the outside from which the exhaust fan or blower will pull air from and through the growing area. Without air coming into the growing area there can be no exhaust going out of the growing area. By this I don’t mean that you need a blower or fan blowing air into the growing area, but in some fashion you will need an opening or vent to the outside for the exhaust fan to draw from. As I have said previously, as temperatures go down humidity will go up. You should either have your exhaust fan ON all the time or make sure the humidistat powering your exhaust fan has the ability to turn your exhaust fan ON after the lights go OFF or the temperature falls.

For those growers who want the enhanced growth and are employing air cooled reflectors, air conditioners and Carbon Dioxide to get that enhanced growth also need to make sure that humidity will not go up after the lights have gone OFF.

An air conditioner will take the humidity out of the air only when it’s treating the air for high temperatures. If the temperature is within your limitations but the humidity is going up the air conditioner will not respond. It is here that a good dehumidifier may be needed to help the air conditioner keep the levels of humidity under control. Once again I will mention the use of T-5 fluorescent lamps where high temperatures and humidity are problematic. Although, one should be reminded that high output T-5 lamps and their reflectors can be expensive so maybe purchasing a few at a time when you have the funds might be a good idea.

Carbon Dioxide Enrichment of the Atmosphere:

Let me steal a quote from myself. “Maintaining the high and steady levels of Carbon Dioxide (CO2) on a consistent basis (CO2 levels at 1,500 ppm) is the key to carbon-enhanced growth.

Allowing the growing area’s CO2 levels to drop to 300 ppm and then rise back up to 1,500 ppm is simply not as productive as nice and steady.” Why is this true? When there is a sufficient amount of light, water and nutrients, there is a direct correlation between the amount of CO2 in the atmosphere and plant growth. Think of it this way. You need light, water, nutrients and CO2 for the proper growth of plants. Yes, you do need oxygen, warmth, loving care and few other things I could mention but in this case we are going to consider those as the basic elements of indoor gardening. It is CO2, Light, Water and Nutrient concentrations that we can alter to give us the most growth benefits.

As with all mechanical things, you are only as strong as your weakest link. A great amount of light energy, water and nutrients with a minimal amount of CO2 will not show great results and plant growth may be downright disappointing. It is only when these four elements are equal that plant photosynthesis can be greatly enhanced.

What’s so good about enhanced photosynthesis? Photosynthesis is the drive mechanism that fuels your plants. The higher the rate of photosynthesis the more sugars are made. The more sugars that are made the more carbon, minerals and oils the plant will have locked into it’s cells. This equates to more taste, more fragrance and more weight of the fruit, flowers and dried plant materials.

Why is weight so important to farmers and gardeners alike? The physical dried weight of produce always indicates the amount of relative energy stored in it. By that I mean the weight indicates the amount of minerals, oils, sugars and carbon content in the cells and in the dried juices of the plant’s vascular system. Water is the only thing that evaporates away from the plant in the drying process. I make mention of the drying process here because it is the only way to tell how much water is in the plant. Plant produce can look very similar when trying to compare plant health. But looks are always deceiving. Cell structure can be filled with water, leaving empty and weightless cells after the drying process. A less heavy than normal crop always has a less desirable taste and fragrance. And, let’s not forget less energy to fuel humans when they consume the harvests fruit.

There are three basic ways to place supplemental CO2 into the growing area. One is to strip the carbon from a substance through a chemical reaction. In this case allowing two substances to into come into contact with one another. One substance being a base and one substance being an acid. At least one of the substances has to have carbon molecules that can be readily released through the chemical reaction.

An example of this is vinegar and baking soda. When combined CO2 is released in the air. This can be smelly, messy and time consuming but it does work. The next that I can think of is ascorbic acid and baking soda. It is not as smelly. The next way would be to use bottled CO2. A CO2 regulator can be purchased to attach to a CO2 bottle tank. The regulator can be adjusted so that the CO2 comes out of the tank slow or fast. Most regulators have an indicator or flow meter showing the amount of CO2 being emitted to the atmosphere in cubic feet per hour. This will allow you to determine how long of a period of time the CO2 needs to be released per treatment.

CO2 generators can be used to supplement the microclimates atmosphere. These machines are really nothing more than a different kind of gas heater. The difference here is the way the gas is burned. CO2 generators are designed to burn the gas in such a manner that very little toxic gas is produced in the combustion process. You will notice that commercial CO2 generators have a BLUE flame when it is producing CO2. Should a CO2 generator have a yellow or orange flame, toxic gases are being released into the air. This is bad. Carbon Monoxide and ethylene gas are the two major gases that will be emitted by gas flames that are yellow or orange in color. Both are bad for plants and humans when they are in high concentrations. All of you who cook on gas stoves will remember that the flames are BLUE. This assures the hottest flame and lowest possible amount of toxic gases produced by the stove. Blue flames are good for indoor gardeners, yellow and orange flames are bad for indoor gardeners.

I would not recommend any CO2 generator that does not have a safety tip over switch that will cut the gas OFF to the generator should it be knocked over or fall down from its perch. Most of the CO2 generators have a DC solenoid that stops the flow of gas to the burner when power is denied to the AC/DC transformer. Instead of a flow meter like the CO2 regulator has, the generator uses different size burners to measure the amount of CO2 placed in the atmosphere per hour. Denying the burners gas by closing the solenoid’s valve is the generators way of regulating the flow of CO2 to the atmosphere.

Those who already have existing natural gas to their home or greenhouse should consider natural gas generators. Those who do not have the natural gas option will be using propane tanks to fire their generators. There are many more places to have propane tanks filled than there are CO2 tanks filled.

More to come as time allows.

Blackjack :D

Should I flush my plants with water from time to time?

Common problems solved for all gardeners growing in all soil brands.

Flushing should be done periodically if you feel that you haven’t been following the basic watering techniques outlined by the Blackjack Soil Company or you have been using other brands of plant foods. Should you see signs of overfeeding, (curling or misshaped leaves, leaves with brown or yellow tips, or leaves that are crunchy dry) flush the soil. When you flush use Blackjack Soil’s Liquid Humic Acid. Read the bottle's soil application directions and use three teaspoons per gallon of water. Read how much to you need to use to save the plant in the commentary below.

The use of a drip tray under the pot is good idea. But, be careful the plant doesn’t stand in water for long lengths of time, as this will reduce the oxygen content of the soil with the possibility of root rot occurring.

General Rule of Watering A good rule to determine how much water is needed at every watering is to determine how much wastewater run-off occurs. At each watering, calculate the wastewater run-off from each pot to be approximately 10-20% of the water applied to the soil.

The idea is to make sure that the soil does not build up too much soluble plant food generated by the naturally occurring beneficial microorganism colonies found in Blackjack Soil and at the same time not flush all of the nutrients away that the plant will need to feed on. Remember, wastewater run-off should not be allowed to soak back up into the pot’s soil. It may be used to fertilize outdoor plants.

General Rule of Flushing If you feel you haven’t been following the recommended watering techniques outlined by the Blackjack Soil Company you should flush/leach your plants soil every month with water and the proper amount Blackjack Soil’s Liquid Humic Acid.

Exactly how little water can be used and still have a good flush? A light periodic flush every three weeks is a good place to start. Lets say your plant is in a 5-gallon pot. Water the soil with enough water until you see at least 25 to 50 percent of the 5-gallon pot capacity come out of the bottom and run away. In this case it would be 1.25 - 2.5 gallons of water. Calculate it this way; 5 (pot size in gallons) times by .25 (percent of flushed run-off water needed) = 1.25 (1 gallon of water you want to run out the bottom of the pot never to be seen again).

If you think you might need more water than a 25 percent flush run-off, increase to 50 percent or more and log that information into your log book so you can remember what you did for your next grow.

Should you see the plant have a direct benefit from leaching/flushing you may want to increase the amount of water applied at each watering.

How are you supposed to know how much flushed wastewater run-off has exited your plants pot without measuring the run-off from every pot? I might suggest the use of my old standby watering technique for flushing. This is how that goes. Lets use the 5-gallon pot as an example again. Water the plant’s pot slowly and softly (sprinkler/shower attachment) until all of the soil in the pot is moist. Stop watering when the wastewater is just starting to exit the pot. Now go to the next pot and do the same until all of your pots have very moist soil. This is the point where we will measure out the 25 percent water flush, and as shown in the previous paragraph, it’s 1.25 gallons of water. Now, evenly pour the 1.25 gallons of water into the pot without disturbing the soil’s surface. Once again, you might need to use the sprinkler/shower attachment to your watering can to keep the soil surface undamaged. I think you will now find that 1.25 gallons of wastewater will have exited the bottom of the pot.

The frequent application of Blackjack Soil Liquid Humic Acid will lesson if not eliminate the chance of plant stress due to nutrient lock-up. Follow label directions.

Blackjack :D

What is the proper way to water my plants?

Here are some basic watering guidelines. I have added over fertilizing to this topic because most people like to add plant food to their watering regiment. It is also why most gardeners fail to grow healthy plants. This is addressed after how to water but it is just as important so take the time to learn about it.

Believe it or not, watering is the hardest thing for gardeners to do. I know that most gardeners at one time or another have had a preconceived idea that all you have to do is throw a little water in the plant’s general direction and your done. This misconception can ruin your harvest or keep you from getting that blue ribbon awarded to you. Take the watering tips and general rules in this section seriously. Professional greenhouse growers use these rules and tips religiously.

Watering Tips Always add air to the water before watering your plants to imitate the effects of natural rainfall. For small applications fill up milk jug half way with water. Place the cap ON it and shake vigorously for a minute or two. Now the water has air in it. For grander applications, an air pump with air stones or water pumps can add air to larger drums or reservoirs. For automatic watering systems, a spray from a proper spray stake or spray emitter will force the water to pick up air the same way water picks up air as it falls from the sky in the form of rain. The above methods will re-oxygenate the soil for healthy roots and microorganisms.

Water the plant and then let the plant’s soil go from wet to moist before watering again. This will prevent you from over watering or suffocating the roots causing root rot and eventual plant death. Some varieties of plants like to have their feet go almost dry to the point of slight leaf wilt before watering again. You will just have to experiment with your watering cycle for best results. Log the facts you learn about your plant varieties for future reference. With a watchful eye your plants will tell you when and how often to water. It might be a good idea for gardeners to assign several test plants with different watering techniques. Some you water often, some you water little and some you water in between. If you have the time to devote to this kind of time taking discipline, you can really understand each variety of plant and become a true master gardener.

The use of a drip tray under the pot is good idea. When watering, they work nice to catch drips after you have seen what looks like to be the last of the wastewater run-off* come out of the pot and run away. Be careful the plant doesn’t stand in wastewater for long lengths of time, as this will reduce the oxygen content of the soil with the possibility of root rot occurring. Watch your plants for signs of overfeeding if your plant is sitting in a drip tray and you haven’t been careful to see wastewater run-off of approximately 10-20% of the water applied to the soil.

*Wastewater run-off refers to wastewater exiting the pot, never to be used again for that pot. Do not let your plant sit in wastewater. This is especially true if you use chemical or organic plant foods when you water. Wastewater may be used to fertilize outdoor plants.

General Rule of Watering A good rule to determine how much water is needed at every watering is to determine how much wastewater run-off occurs. At each watering, calculate the wastewater run-off from each pot to be approximately 10-20% of the water applied to the soil. (Keep watering until you get your 10-20% run-off.) The idea here is to make sure that the soil does not build up too much soluble plant food generated by the naturally occurring beneficial microorganisms found in the soil (all soils including Blackjack Soil) and or the plant food that you may be using.

If the soil dries out to the point of being bone dry, it may channel water down the side of the pot without hydrating all of the soil. If this has occurred, slowly water the plant little by little until the soil has expanded back and is uniformly moist. Keep the soil surface even and level so the water penetrates the surface evenly. Apply the water evenly to the entire soil surface.

Remember, wastewater run-off should not be allowed to soak back up into the pot’s soil. Wastewater may be used to fertilize outdoor plants.

General Rule of Flushing If you are not able to make sure a 10-20% run-off is coming from your plant’s pot when watering, you should flush your plants every three weeks just like a good rainfall does outdoors. Don't forget to use Blackjack's Liquid Humic Acid to help free the soil of precipitated chemicals and keep it that way. Three teaspoons to each gallon of water will really help the flushing process.

Exactly how little water can be used and still have a good flush? A light periodic flush every month is a good place to start. Lets say your plant is in a 5-gallon pot. Water the soil with enough water until you see at least 25-50 percent of the 5-gallon pot capacity come out of the bottom and run away. In this case it would be 1.5 to 2.5 gallons of water. Calculate it this way; 5 (pot size in gallons) times by .25 (percent of flushed wastewater run-off water needed) = 1.25 (1 gallon of water you want to run out the bottom of the pot never to be seen again).

If you think you might need more wastewater run-off than a 25 percent flush run-off, increase to 50 percent or more and log that information into your logbook so you can remember what you did for your next grow.

When plants show signs of nutrient deficiency they may very well need more plant food but make sure you haven't overfed them first. Divide the plants that look like they are underfed into two groups or better yet if they're not too far-gone, select two plants that represent the two groups.

Feed one plant and flush the other with Blackjack Soil’s Liquid Humic Acid. Use a careful eye to watch for signs of improvement or further problems.

Let’s look at over fertilizing and what to do about it if you have.

Over feeding: For those of you who put fertilizer in your water, it is important that you take care not to over-fertilize your plants. The 10-20 percent run-off rule is going to help you greatly. Here’s why. When you add fertilizer to the water, the plant food goes into the soil. That’s good.

What’s not good is when the plant food builds up in the soil. You see, there is a scientific principle called osmosis*. Osmosis allows the plant to pull in the soluble plant food from the soil because the plant fluids in the roots are stronger in minerals than the soluble plant food in the soil. If the soil builds up plant food to the point where the soil has more soluble minerals in it than the plant roots have in them, the soil will actually pull minerals out of the plant’s roots. The plant can no longer feed and an interesting thing occurs. The plant shows signs of both overfeeding and underfeeding. To the untrained eye, the symptoms can be interpreted as the plant needing more plant food because it shows signs of being underfed. This leads many gardeners to add more plant food to the soil and make matters worse.

The addition of Blackjack's Liquid Humic Acid and Golden Humic Acid Extract to your watering regiment is a great way to keep chemicals from building up in the soil and stimulate a robust healthy growth.

The American Heritage® Science Dictionary.

Osmosis (ŏz-mō’sĭs): The movement of a solvent through a membrane separating two solutions of different concentrations. The solvent from the side of weaker concentration usually moves to the side of the stronger concentration, diluting it, until the concentrations of the solutions are equal on both sides of the membrane. The pressure exerted by the molecules of the solvent on the membrane they pass through is called osmotic pressure. Osmotic pressure is the energy driving osmosis and is important for living organisms because it allows water and nutrients dissolved in water to pass through cell membranes.

I will take this opportunity to tell you some classic symptoms that plants will show when they’re being overfed.

Leaf: The plant leaf will tend to show signs of stress by turning a very dark green and then turning to a light green fading eventually to yellow. Initial stress can also be seen in the leaf as a slight buckling, or the plant’s inability to keep its leaves flat or inability to keep the classic even shape of all of the leaves. The leaf may even show signs of obvious deformity. Plant leaf tips may start to curl, either from side to side or curl up or down. The leaf tips may turn brown, dry-up and die. New leaf shoots may show signs of yellowing, either in the veins or between the veins. Advanced signs of over-fertilization will take on the same signs as severe under-watering/drought. Leaves will be dry to the touch and often crumble into tiny pieces when lightly grasped between the fingers and palm.

Stems: Stems will show signs of mineral deficiency by displaying different color stripes running up and down the main stem or/and running from the main stem to the branches. The branches will lose their ability to bend and bounce back to their original position. They will tend to break, fracture and split under pressure.

Roots: Roots will generally not give signs of over-fertilization. I will say this however; those who have over-watered the soil by letting their plant’s pot sit in water may very well develop root rot. With root rot the roots will turn brown and mushy. You will see many of the same symptoms as mentioned above as the plants root lose their ability to uptake nutrients.

Do you think you have overfed your plant? Don't forget to use Blackjack's Liquid Humic Acid to help free the soil of precipitated chemicals and keep it that way. Three teaspoons to each gallon of water will really help the flushing process. See the sections on flushing (but don’t forget to read the basic watering techniques). Sit back and wait for the plant to become stress free. This may take up to three weeks.

Once you have determined that you are not overfeeding your plants or you have taken the steps to flush the fertilizers out of the soil you can start your fertilizer program again with caution and a watchful eye. You most likely will never experience overfeeding again because now you know how to feed them and what to look for if you have.

Blackjack :D

My plant’s leaves are drooping. What could be the cause?

Common problems solved for all gardeners growing in all brands of soil.

Toxic Shock: Look at your daily log. When watering/fertilizing, have you been making sure that 10-20% of the water you have added to the soil at each watering has been exiting the pot and is not being soaked back up into the pot’s soil? Do not leave your plant sitting in wastewater. Toxic shock can occur if your using drip-trays improperly.

If you haven’t followed the basic watering techniques, have you been flushing the pots soil every 4 weeks with Blackjack’s Liquefied Humic Acid or Golden Humic Acid Extract? When flushing, have you seen wastewater of 25-50% of the pot’s capacity exit the pot and not be soaked back up into the pot? If you let wastewater soak back up into the pot, soil toxins/fertilizer can build up and keep the plant from taking up water and plant food.

When plants don’t uptake water and food their leaves droop, turn yellow, purple, red, brown and get dead spots in the leaves and have brown curled leaf tips. The stems lose the ability to stand up straight and often times get streaks of colors like red or purple in them. These are all signs of over-feeding that create symptoms (illusions) of a nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) or potassium (K) deficiency. After that, the leaves get crunchy to the touch. You must water and flush your plant’s pot properly.

Tip: Drip trays are for catching drips after you have watered. They are not intended to catch the wastewater run-off from the pot and let it sit there to soak back up into the pot and contaminate the pots soil. Don’t let plants sit in wastewater or fertilized water. Add Blackjack’s Liquefied Humic Acid or Golden Humic Acid Extract to your watering regiment.

Over Watering Syndrome: Make sure the pot hasn’t been sitting in standing water for any length of time, as this would indicate the plants are being over watered. Over watering is a nice way of saying you are suffocating the roots.

Always add air to the water before watering to imitate the effects of natural rainfall. For small applications fill up milk jug half way with water. Place the cap ON and shake vigorously for a minute or two. Now the water has air in it. For grander applications, an air pump with air stones or water pumps can add air to larger containers. Water the plant and then let the plant’s soil dry out before watering again.

Under Watering Syndrome: Make sure the soil is moist throughout the pot. Often times gardeners will only water enough to see a small trickle of water coming from the pots drain holes because they are afraid to overflow the drip tray/saucer beneath. You should fill the drip tray with water and see if the soil will absorb it. Keep filling the drip tray with water until it is no longer being absorbed into the soil. Then go back to your normal watering schedule.

Insect Attack: Check for bugs on leaves and in the soil.

Temperature: Make sure the plant is not growing too close to the light source or the temperature of the growing area is too high.

Note: If you use Blackjack’s Liquefied Humic Acid or Golden Humic Acid Extract when you water and you will be less likely to have issues concerning toxic shock/over fertilizing.

Blackjack :D

I intend to force my plants to bloom but they are turning yellow in Vegetation.

Make sure you are not over or under watering. Toxic shock can occur when bad watering techniques are used. For me, a knee jerk reaction to the yellowing of plants leaves is to flush the plants with water, sit back and watch them. Blackjack Soil’s Humic Acid would be a good thing to add to the water you are going to flush your plants with, 3 teaspoons per gallon of water.

Another reason may be that the plant is running out of food. Make sure to adhere to the golden rule of at least 1½ gallons of Blackjack soil for every 12 inches of plant height.

Also, it may be because you are past Blackjack Soil’s two-month ability to delivery nutritional energy to the plants or your plant is simply a food hog. I have had many plants that have the genetic fortitude to feed outside the soils ability to deliver nutrition. You should use Blackjack Soil’s Humic Acid or Humic Acid Extract on any plant that you recognize to have excellent genetics or is an obvious food hog.

If the plant is turning yellow because the plant needs more food, you will need to place more plant food into the soil. Apply 1 tablespoon of Gigantamo Grow for each gallon of soil in the container. Sprinkle it over the soil’s surface and cover it with ½ to 1 inch of Gigantamo Grow enriched soil and water the plant. Or, make holes in the soil with a pencil and fill them in with the prescribed amount of Gigantamo Grow Plant Food then water the plant. Do this even if you will soon be going into a bloom cycle and will be fertilizing then too. Add Blackjack Soil’s Humic Acid or Humic Acid Extract to the water you feed the plants.

Blackjack :D

I wish my plants were bushier. What can I do?

Generally speaking, Blackjack Gigantamo Grow and Bloom are fantastic at keeping plants growing at a pace that insures that all of the plant’s nutritional needs are met before manufacturing new cells. However, a plant will instinctively grow toward a light source and if the light source is weak the plant will stretch out of proportion. If your light source(s) are sufficient, sometimes a little assistance from mankind can help plants behave themselves and stay within the height restrictions of the growing area. It might be best to show you a little illustration demonstrating where to pinch or prune the plant to make it bushier. In the illustration below, the first 3 plants show possible growth characteristics by pinching/pruning. For every pinch, 2 or more stems grow in its place. The last illustrated plant shows the growth without pinching/pruning.

Also, the HPS lamp you are using may be a problem that you will have to deal with. HPS lamps are known to keep plants from bushing out and tend to force the plant to stretch toward the light source. If I can assume that you used a metal halide lamp during vegetative growth cycle, you might try adding the equivalent of a 125 watt fluorescent lamp with a Kelvin rating of 5000K-6000K to burn along side every one of your HPS lamps during bloom cycle. You can cut the fluorescent lamp(s) off about two weeks from harvest to signal the plant to die. This will effectively trans-locate the oils and sugars to the blooms and fruit before harvest. You should also see a much healthier growth. Check my other posts in the frequently asked questions area to learn more on this.

Blackjack :D

What kind of lighting should I use? Updated 11.30.09

First let me say this: Most plants will grow despite what I say here and I'm sure that at least one of my views will be news to you. In which, you may not agree with me because of what you may have heard, read or experienced. What can I say?

My views here represent many years of helping gardeners be better growers. I'm not going to tell you that they are better gardeners than you, but most of them are successful growers time after time. To me, consistency in great harvests is the most important thing for gardeners. It gives them breathing room to try different techniques because their not fighting failure. When you're not fighting failure you inherently have the time, money and fortitude to try different techniques. I like time, money and fortitude; it’s that combination that made me a better gardener. It is my wish that your continued success will give you command of time, money and fortitude. So here we go. I will expound on some of my basic lighting views that I assure you will not hurt your plants, and I think will give gardeners who are new to indoor growing a good head start. For others, it may be time to think fresh.

Vegetative Stage: When it comes to the lighting of the vegetative stage of plant growth I still recommend Metal Halide lighting although, the new T5 fluorescent lamps are quite nice if you can get them down close to the plants. The reason behind this view is the blue spectrum that Metal Halide inherently emits from the burning of the metal halides inside the lamps electrode. It is my belief that good vegetative plant growth starts with a light spectrum of 3000-4000 degrees Kevin. A spectrum below 3000 degrees Kevin may very well signal the plant to manufacture hormones for bloom growth and stretch toward the light source but may also prematurely prepare for winters die-out. You don't want this happening in the vegetation stage of plant growth. Metal Halide lamps can be purchased with Kelvin ratings of 3000K to 14,000K. For gardening I think we only need to pay attention to MH lamps with Kelvin ratings of 3000K to 6000K. When comparing MH 6000K lamps with MH 4000K lamps, many gardeners have reported better vegetation growth with 6000K lamps but then again just as many gardeners don’t like the 6000 K lamps. Before you try the 6000 Kelvin lamps know that there is a significant extra cost with the 6000K lamps. It is up to you and your pocket book to decide that one. Mixing the MH 6000Kwith 2000 K HPS or another MH 3000K lamp or 3000 K T-5’s might very well be a good application choice. Many gardeners have successfully used the MH 3000 Kelvin lamps for vegetative growth and used the same 3000K lamps for bloom. While HPS lamps rated at 2000 K are used by some gardeners for vegetative growth, I would never use them without the use of helper lamps to boost the Kelvin temperature rating to at least 3000K. Usually these helper lamps are T-5 fluorescent with a color output of 5-6000 Kelvin. HPS lamps are rated at 2000 Kelvin and it is my view that there simply isn’t enough blue light emitted for a proper and healthy vegetative plant growth. Yes, even the HPS lamps that advertise 30% more blue light than standard lamps don’t have enough blue light. The standard HPS lamp only has about 2% of its spectrum in the blue range. HPS lamp manufacture’s that advertising 30% more blue in their lamps really don't have much to brag about. In other words, they raised the output of blue from 2% to 2.6%.

New tests have shown that combining one Blue Actinic T-5 lamp for every three 3000 Kelvin lamps can be a great help in producing healthy strong vegetative plants. Actinic T-5 tubes produce Ultra Violet (UV) light and I believe it is this frequency that promotes the plants positive health response. I also believe this is the frequency that LED light manufactures are trying to emulate with their red and blue lamps. Caution to those who use Actinic T-5 tubes as the UV will give you a sunburn just like the Sun so use sunglasses when you’re around them. Actinic lamp's Kelvin color temperature is about 28,000 K. Wow! Not a misprint, they’re really blue.

Those who use HPS in vegetation growth will be very happy to know that there have been good reports of plant growth using Actinic tubes in conjunction with HPS lamps. The ratio is seems to be a minimum of 4 actinic 4 foot tubes for every 600 watt lamp. More of course would be better but information available to me suggests that no more than 8 actinic 4 foot tubes for every 600 or 1000 watt lamp is necessary.

How many lamps per square foot is always a question worth investigating. Don’t get me wrong here, I am a firm believer of "the more lamps the better”. However, my views here are intended to serve the minimum amount needed to get the job done. Having said that, I think that the standard rule of thumb of a 400-watt MH lamp for every 4-foot by 4-foot area is pretty close to being correct, but I think you should place Mylar on all surfaces in the growing area. I believe it to be more reflective than white paint or white plastic. This will help to illuminate the plant on all of its surfaces and get you closer to outdoor lighting conditions and its subsequent growth characteristics. I would always recommend two 400 watt lamps or two 600 watt lamps to any one 1000 watt lamp. You simply give the garden a better coverage of light and a more even plant growth throughout. Reflectors should be chosen on the basis of climatic conditions that are currently occurring or may occur in the future and, any climatic conditions that you wish to induce to help your micro climate's atmosphere deliver a proper photosynthesis. As an example, those gardeners who wish to artificially enhance the micro climate’s atmosphere with supplemental Carbon Dioxide should make use of enclosed air-cooled reflectors. They will reduce the heat from the lamps, take the burden off of air conditioners and allow the atmosphere to hold a consistently high level of Carbon Dioxide without exhaust fans constantly blowing all of your CO2 out of the room. For those growers who will never modify their micro climates atmosphere, just about any kind of reflector will work. Just remember, reflectors that allow the grower to be exposed to a hot lamp are risky at best. HID lamps get hot, and I mean hot. If a hot lamp touches your cheek or other unprotected skin, it will leave a nasty burn. I do not recommend open reflectors with exposed lamps when children are around. Little faces can be scared for life. Also, a lamp’s glass envelope can break when accidentally hit with a hard surface or implode with a quick shot of water. Reflectors with glass safety shields are good for gardeners. Ask your indoor garden store for the safest reflector you can afford. Everything starts and finishes with safety. Let’s face it; living without good health just isn’t living.

Bloom Stage: When it comes to the blooming stage of plant growth, I really would like to divide blooming into two parts. I will do this by referring to the bloom cycle of plant growth as ‘the first stage of bloom’ and ‘the second stage of bloom’. The first stage of bloom starts with a transition from the normal 18 hours of light a day of vegetation to 12 hours of light a day in bloom. When this lighting change happens, it triggers specific hormones to start making buds and blooms. The two main environmental conditions that inherently start the manufacturing of hormones that induce the bloom cycle are: the changing of light/photo ON periods (18 hours ON, 6 hours OFF to 12 hours ON, 12 hours OFF) and the physical shifting of the light spectrum from 4000-6000 Kelvin to 2000-3000 Kelvin. It is my opinion the transition of the light spectrum from a vegetative growth to a bloom growth is best accomplished on a relatively gradual basis.

The First Stage of Bloom: The initial lamp or combination of lamps used in the first stage of bloom should have an average rating of 3000 Kelvin. This will ensure that the plant will have enough time to manufacture essential bloom hormones and fully fuel photosynthesis to keep the plant healthier and more compact in stature.

The Second Stage of Bloom: After the plant develops buds and the gardener wishes the plants to be firmly placed into a harvest growth, the switching to a lamp or lamps with a spectrum rating of 2000 Kelvin will push the plants into their last one to two weeks of life or the second stage of bloom. This final stage of bloom sets up plant physiology to better trans-locate essential oils and sugars to the consumable parts of the plant or to the blooms of an extra special blue ribbon show plant.

What kind of lamps can accomplish the tasks of illuminating the first stage? Let’s explore our options:

1. Metal Halide lamps can be purchased with a 2700k-3000K rating for the first stage of bloom.

2. An alternate method would be to combine different lamps. Add a higher Kelvin degree lamp (fluorescent or metal halide) to a HPS lamp so that an average of 3000 Kelvin can be achieved for the transition from vegetation into the first stage bloom.

3. Should you wish to combine lamps to accomplish a 3000-Kelvin light spectrum for the first stage of bloom, I might suggest the use of fluorescent tubes in combination with HPS lamps. I have always used this rule: 100-200 watts of 4000 - 28,000 Kelvin fluorescent light to every 1000 watts of HPS light will get you close to the 3000 Kelvin goal.

What kind of lamps can accomplish the tasks of illuminating the second stage of bloom? Let’s explore our options:

Simply turning OFF the Actinic lamps in the final or second stage of bloom, the HPS lamp’s spectrum will end the plants cycle nicely. Better yet, to let the plant know that you would like to wind things up, specific red T-5 tubes are available to drive the point home to the plant to finish its cycle and be all it can be. Pentron red T-5 tubes aren’t just redder in color than your normal 4000 Kelvin T-5 like you would see when comparing a 4000 K T-5 to a 3000 K T-5. Nope, these bad boys are really red like the crayon red coloring stick. A Pentron red tube is about 1,000 Kelvin in color. At the time of this writing feed back from growers say that Pentron red tubes will really work wonders to help end the plants cycle. To initiate the second stage of bloom, their story is to simply replace the Actinic blue T-5’s or other higher Kelvin fluorescent tubes that they are already using along side their HPS lamps with the Pentron red tubes. It gives an eerie red glow amongst the green plants. The Pentron red is about 500-1,000 Kelvin in color temperature.

Those gardeners who only utilize the vegetative growth cycle for very short periods might ask if the aforementioned two stages of bloom is right for them. I would I have to say that any growth cycle can be split up to accommodate the extra amount of blue light applied to the garden in the first stage of bloom. As a matter of fact, I believe it would be this gardener who would benefit most from it.

***All lamps have a Kelvin rating should the manufacture decide to disclose it. This rating indicates the color of light that the lamp emits. The lower the Kelvin rating the more orange-red light it emits. HPS lamps are rated at 2000K. As the temperature rating of a lamp in Kelvin (K) goes up, so does the amount of blue light the lamp emits. So, consequentially a Metal Halide 3000K lamp is not as orange-red as a HPS lamp and a 4000K lamp is approaching white in color and a 5000K-6000K lamp has obvious blue tinges to them.

I have often times explained Kelvin temperature ratings with a camping analogy. You’re sitting around the fire and as the fire dies down the coals take on an orange-red color (2000K). To get the fire going again, you find a piece of sturdy cardboard and start to fan the coals. The coals get hotter from the wind and they start to change color until they are white hot (6000K). The bluer the color of the light, the higher the Kelvin temperature rating will be.

Supplemental Lighting:

Let me say this about supplemental lighting. It is absolutely necessary. Light coming from above will give you blossoms and blooms mostly at the top of the plant. Why? Because the plant will choose a bud site determined by the amount of electromagnetic waves (light) hitting the leaves. The less light, the less buds. Without light hitting the plant from the sides, it leaves a lot of the plant without blooms! Outdoor plants are blessed with the Sun’s strong rays. So strong are these rays that they can bounce from the ground to the side of the plant and be strong enough to coax the plant to make a bud. T-5 fluorescent tubes are great for side light because they can be purchased separately and be daisy chained together to form an array. This allows the gardener to purchase one every payday and at the end of the year have all the light they need. Place supplemental light on the sides and in between the plants. Some great growers have even placed them close to the floor for light penetration into smaller plants. Always use Mylar to reflect misguided light back onto the plant. I have always found it better than white paint or plastic. After all, you can see your image in it. Can you see your image in white paint? Think about it. Use Mylar on the ceiling, walls, floor, top of pot and side of pot. The object here is to get the light onto the plant and not sucked up into paint, plastic or concrete. Waste not want not.

Blackjack :D Copyright all rights reserved.

My plant is stretching. What can I do to keep it smaller?

This is most likely because the plant is not getting enough light. Move the plant closer to the light source, increase the light output of the light source or increase the number of light sources.

High Pressure Sodium lighting should not be used solely in the vegetative state growing. HPS lamps are rated at 2000-Kelvin light output. HPS doesn’t have enough blue to keep the plant from stretching.

It is my opinion that the perfect bloom Kelvin light is 3000K. If you are using HPS lighting exclusively, add some standard blue T-5 fluorescent lamps (5000-6500 Kelvin) to the growing area in both vegetative and bloom areas and log the difference in growth.

T-5 fluorescent lamps can now be purchased with a fixture that holds only one lamp. These are quite nice because they allow you to add extra light to manipulate the Total Kelvin illumination of the grow room. Adding two to four single 4 foot T-5 6500 Kelvin lamps per 600 or 1000 watt HPS lamp seems to do a pretty good job pushing you close to 3,000 Total Kelvin illuminations in Bloom.

Tip: Use a metal halide lamp or multiple T-5 lamps in the vegetative portion of your grow. When it is time to switch your plants to bloom, add a few single T-5 fluorescent lamps along with your HPS lamp and then turn the T-5 fluorescent lamps OFF 2 weeks before harvest. Makes for a nice transition to simulate Spring to Fall. Compare and log your notes.

Note: The higher the Kelvin rating, the more blue in the light output of the lamp.

The low amount of ammonia in Blackjack Plant Foods makes the probability of the plant food being the cause extremely low. Another suggestion might be to learn good pruning techniques (page 14).

Be careful when you use fertilizers that have high amounts of Ammonia or Urea in the formula. These forms of nitrogen can signal the plant to make cells without waiting for essential elements to be part of the cell make-up. This can result in plant elongation with weak stems and stalks. Combine this kind of fertilizer application with low light and/or exclusive HPS lamp use and you could have a recipe for disaster.

Blackjack :D

My pot's soil dried out. What do I do?

Check to see if the soil has pulled away from the inside of the pot. If so, add more soil to the crack to fill it in. Initially the soil may want to reject the water so you must have patience. Place a deep drip tray or saucer (one or two inches deep) under the pot. Slowly, a little bit at a time, water the soil surface. Watch to make sure that the entire soil surface is absorbing the water. It is important that the water runs straight down through the soil and not between the pot and the soil. When you see water going into the drip tray, stop watering and wait for the pot to empty. Fill the drip tray with water and give it enough time to soak into the pot’s soil. Keep filling the drip tray until the soil will no longer absorb water. The soil should now be hydrated. Empty the remaining water from the drip try and go back to your watering schedule when the soil moisture is low.

Blackjack :D

I want to transplant into a bigger pot. What size should I use?

You will need to determine how tall your plant will get when it is full-grown. If you’re lucky, the pots available to you are rated in gallons on the bottom with a number. The general rule of thumb with Blackjack is you should use at least 1½ gallons of soil for each foot of plant height. If you think your plant will end up being 2 ft high, multiply 1½ gallons of soil times 2 feet high to get your answer of 3 gallons of Blackjack Gigantamo Grow enriched soil needed.

If you can, choose a pot with a number. If the answer to your equation says you need a three-gallon pot, choose a number 4, the next size up. Mix up enough of your favorite soil and Blackjack Gigantamo Grow plant food to fill the pot and leave two inches from the top of the soil to the rim of the pot. Whether you use an inch of gravel in the bottom or not use the simple formula above and things will work our fine. Do not shake the soil off of the roots when transplanting. Gently remove the plant and soil from the smaller pot. Place it into the new soil and water.

Example equation from above: 1½ gallons of soil times the estimated plant height at maturity to get the pot size and then choose the next pot size up from that.

Blackjack :D

What size pot do I use for my plant?

You will first need to determine how tall your plant will get when it is full-grown. If you’re lucky the pots available to you are rated in gallons on the bottom with a number. The rule of thumb with Blackjack Soil is that you should use 1½ gallons of soil for each foot of plant height. If you think your plant will end up being 2 ft high, multiply 1½ gallons of soil times 2 feet high to get your answer of 3 gallons of Blackjack Soil needed. If the answer to your equation says you need a three-gallon pot, choose a number 4, the next size up. Mix up enough of your favorite soil and Blackjack Gigantamo Grow plant food or Blackjack Soil right out of the bag to fill the pot and leave two inches from the top of the soil to the rim of the pot. Whether you use an inch of gravel in the bottom or not, the simple formula above will work out fine.

Example equation from above: 1½ gallons of soil times the estimated plant height at maturity to get the soil amount and then choose the next pot size up from that.

A 1 cubic foot bag of soil is equivalent to about 7 gallons of soil.

Blackjack :D

Upgraded Tips on the Gigantamo Leaf Spray (this stuff is awesome)

See the tips below! When to start spraying?

Spray when the lights are ON and at least 2 hours before the lights turn OFF. Two reasons why: 1. Photosynthesis brings the spray into the plant.

2. You don't want he plants wet in your lights OFF period.

Indoors: Start 1 week before you switch lights to 12 ON 12 OFF. Continue spraying once a day for 12-14 days. This means you will be spraying the product on the plant late in veg and early in bloom. Spray when the lights are ON and at least 2 hours before the lights turn OFF. Two reasons why: 1. Photosynthesis brings the spray into the plant.

2. You don't want he plants wet in your lights OFF period.

Outdoors: Whenever you want plants to start blooming. Spray once a day for 12-14 days. Spray in the morning before the heat and full sun of the day.

Application according to directions:

1. Shake the bottle well.

2. Add 2 teaspoons of the Leaf Spray per quart of water.

3. Spray during Lights ON in the beginning part of the Day.

4. Spray on a leaf. Make sure it covers the leaf completely. If it beads up and runs off, take the sprayer OFF of the bottle and pump the sprayer back into the bottle to clear its contents. Add a few drops of a horticultural surfactant to the bottle. Replace the sprayer and shake well. Spray another leaf. Repeat this process until the Leaf Spray covers a leaf without beading and running off.

Tip: Some customers are saying they like the effects when they use more than the directions call for.

Tip: Some plants like a little more than the directions suggest. Try 3 to 6 teaspoons per quart on 1 or 2 test plants and look for a better result from 2 teaspoons.

Tip: Spraying at an increased dosage may allow you to skip applications to every other day. You must try and compare.

Tip: In your log book, keep notes on how much surfactant was needed for the next time you spray.

Tip: Spray leaf top and bottom and cover stems.

Tip: If you can't spray every day, try spraying a plant every other day at 4 teaspoons per quart and see what happens.

Tip: If you can't find a horticultural grade surfactant use Ivory Liquid.

Blackjack :D

New Blackjack Light Weight Soil Formulation is out and ready for sale.

NEW Blackjack Light Weight Some of the mail that came in from Blackjack Soil users asked for a formulation with less energy in the form of nutrients and would also hold less water. So, here you go. This new formula will hold less water and more air than the original. It also has less strength of energy and will feed the plant for approximately 3-4 weeks instead of 6 weeks like the original. Teas and other natural plant food can be used along with inorganic plant foods. Blackjack Soil Brand plant foods can be used at full strength. Plant foods other than Blackjack Soil brands should be used at half strength until you have accessed their effect on the plant.

We have had very good input so far on this soil blend. Blackjack Light Weight will come in a plain white bag until sales increase to the point where I can have a pretty bag. Once the pretty bag comes out it will be predominately white with the Blackjack Logo while the original formulation will remain the same with a predominately black look. This should keep them easy to tell apart.

Happy Gardening, Blackjack